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The “Green Machine” Orange Mylar Body, Soft Hackle, by Jim

The “Green Machine” Orange Mylar Body, Soft Hackle, by Jim Burchette

Hook: Size 12-16 Green Caddis Outfitters black barbless Czech nymph hook model GC9252B,. GCO caddis/shrimp model number GC251B is another good hook for this pattern.

Thread: UTC white, 70D

Body: Orange freshwater (standard width) Flashabou Mylar tinsel.

Thorax: Peacock Ice Dub (you can also use natural peacock hurl)

Bead: Black tungsten or brass, size dependent on water

Hackle: Hungarian partridge

UV resin: Solarez Bone Dry, thin (optional). Hard as Nails also works.


Procedure

  1. Place the bead on the hook.

  2. Start the thread rearward of the hook eye, about where the thorax will be.

  3. Wrap the thread down to the hook bend. Keep the thread flat. Tie in the Mylar. Return the thread to where the thorax will start and make a half hitch. Hang your thread bobbin over the thread rest. Use the rotary action of your tying vise to cover the shank of the hook with the Mylar. I make three coverings with the mylar. (1) From the hook bend to the thorax, (2) back to the hook bend and, (3) return to the thorax. Tie off and cut. 

  4. Apply a thin coat of Solarez Bone dry and cure with a UV light.

  5. Dub a small amount of Ice Dub on the thread and create a small thorax bump. 

  6. Prepare a partridge hackle. Tie in by the tip and make 2 turns of hackle and tie off. 

  7. Use a black Sharpie to color the thread, if you desire.

  8. Whip finish and apply head cement.

Options: Olive and pearl Flashabou are good color options. I have tied this pattern with an underbody of black, orange, olive or white thread, but honestly, there is not much difference. That’s probably due to the three wrappings of Flashabou. One wrapping of wide cut Flashabou will suffice, if available. A small bit of dubbing can be added between the partridge and the bead if desired.

Fishing the soft hackle. Dead drift under a strike indicator. If drifting without a strike indicator, allow the fly to swing at the end of the drift and hold in the current before making your next cast. A slight twitch of the rod tip can initiate a strike.

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